The new hand-wound Grand Seiko Elegance Spring SBGW283 and Summer SBGW285
Two new Elegance models feature textured dials inspired by the changing seasons, continuing the tradition of the simple and elegant SBGW231.
Like most Japanese, Grand Seiko has always shown a close relationship with nature. Dials inspired by the changing seasons, the texture of tree bark, the twinkling stars in the night sky, and even the delicate colors of cherry blossom petals are recurring themes at Grand Seiko. The manufacturing environment of Grand Seiko was deliberately studied to inspire the spirit of craftsmanship (Master Craftsman) and most Grand Seiko mechanical watches (not Spring Drive movements) are made in the Shizukuishi workshop located in the forest of Iwate Prefecture, which is home to the majestic Mt. Iwate location. Two new textured dials inspired by nature, the SBGW283 Spring and SBGW285 Summer, join Grand Seiko's Elegance collection. The SBGWXXX collection is a compact, elegant and easy-to-use manual-winding chronograph watch whose refined details meet the principles of Grand Seiko designer TaroTanaka's design syntax.
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Unlike the somewhat arbitrary four seasons in the Western world, Japanese culture has 24 small seasons called sekki. The seasons on the dials of these two watches are spring and summer, but in true Japanese style, they are captured at very different moments. The light blue Kishun model (SBGW283) marks the transition from spring to summer, inspired by the light blue sky over Mt. Iwate; the dark green Byōka dial (SBGW285) marks the transition from summer to autumn, with the dark foliage in the forests surrounding Shizukuishi green.
The stainless steel case, with a diameter of 37.3mm and a height of 11.6mm, is a rather simple yet elegantly proportioned round case. However, this is Grand Seiko's territory, and a closer look reveals the brand's meticulous attention to detail. The slightly sloping bezel and short beveled lugs create the ideal juxtaposition of sharp angles and rounded surfaces. By contrast, Zaratsu's polished finish creates a shiny, distortion-free finish (Tanaka's "quality shine").
The domed, light blue and emerald green dials of the latest models are subtly textured, with sharp facets and polished applied hour-markers that complement the light. The hands are also faceted and polished, so sharp they can cut through silk. Aside from the GS logo and the Grand Seiko inscription at noon, the only other element on the dial is the minute/second track on the periphery. Simple and eye-catching, with no date complication to draw attention.
Flip the Grand Seiko SBGW231 over to reveal the 9S64 movement hidden under the transparent caseback and mirror-polished flange. The Calibre 9S64 is a hand-wound mechanical movement introduced to the Grand Seiko collection in 2011. Thanks to a thinner and longer mainspring made of Seiko's proprietary alloy (SPRON510), the movement offers a power reserve of 72 hours/3 days. The hairspring is also made of a highly shock and magnetic resistant alloy. The watch is adjusted in six gears, and its timekeeping accuracy is -3 to +5 seconds per day. The dial features a stop-seconds function and all components, including the ruby pivot stone, are manufactured in-house. The bridges are decorated with Seiko stripes and cover most of the movement, although you can see the balance oscillating and ratcheting at 28,800vph.
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In keeping with the trend of strap accessories, there are alligator leather straps available in a variety of colours, with stainless steel pin buckles.
Technical Specifications – GRAND SEIKO ELEGANCE SBGW283 SBGW285
Case: Diameter 37.3mm x H11.6mm - Stainless steel case, Zaratsu polished - Box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating - Screw-down case back with sapphire crystal and etched Grand Seiko logo - 30m water resistance
Dial: Light blue (SBGW283) or dark green (SBGW285) domed dial with textured background - Polished and faceted hands - Polished, faceted and applied hour markers
Movement: Caliber 9S64 by Grand Seiko - Manual winding - 28,800vph - 72 hours power reserve - 6-speed adjustment - Chronometry accuracy - -3 to +5 seconds per day - 24 jewels - Stop seconds function - Hours, minutes and central seconds
Strap: Choose from alligator leather straps in different colors - stainless steel pin buckle
Reference: SBGW283 Spring Light Blue Dial
SBGW285 Summer Dark Green Dial